Jodi Green explains how a recent trip to Italy brought the horrors of the Holocaust home.

During my recent trip to Rome, our tour guide Yael, who led the Jewish Ghetto tour, pointed out some small brass cobblestones that were replacing the original stone ones. She then explained that these were part of the largest decentralized monument in the world—not just the largest Holocaust monument, but the largest monument dedicated to any tragedy. This monument, known as the “Stumbling Stones” or “Stolpersteine” in German, consists of over 70,000 pieces, with countless more that could still be added.

On my recent trip to Rome, the tour guide, Yael, from the Jewish ghetto tour, pointed out little brass cobblestones that were replacing the stone cobblestones. Yael proceeded to tell us about the largest decentralized monument in the world. Not just the largest Holocaust monument, but the largest monument to any tragedy. This one has over 70,000 pieces in its collection and still have many more, millions more that could be added. It is the “Stumbling Stones” or “Stolpersteine” in German.

The monument was conceived of by artist Gunter Demnig in 1992 as a way to remember the Roma and Sinti victims of the Holocaust. It has since expanded to include all victims of the nazi regime. Each “stone” is engraved by hand to honour the victim and to force the artist to see each name, each birthdate, each date of death, and each location of death. 

While on the tour I was able to see some of these stones and to feel the impact of their presence. For me, the Holocaust is something that happened “there.” Living in North America, we remember, we mourn, and we light candles for something that happened thousands of miles away. When in Europe it becomes real. The impact of the Second World War on the local Jewish community is palpable. It takes on a third dimension that makes each interaction with the history more emotionally impactful and leaves me even more deeply touched.

The apartment building where I saw the stones is in what use to be the Jewish ghetto of Rome. Now it is an up-and-coming neighbourhood. High-end shops are going in and housing prices are rising, but just beneath the surface is a dark history of hate and oppression. This is seen in the old architecture and in the remnants of the Nazi occupation.
The door just inside the portico of the building is covered in scratches and marks from the bayonet of the Nazi gun as they tried to break into the apartment. During a recent renovation, the door polish was refinished, but it was decided to leave the damage in the door as a reminder. It was terrifying to think about what the family inside that apartment was feeling on the day those marks were carved into the door.

To see the stones, one must look down, almost bow before them to really read the words and internalize what each stone represents. While some believe it is disrespectful to allow these names to be stepped on, the intention is to have to stoop and take the time to look, read, and remember.

The Rome ghetto itself was built in 1555 by a Papal Bull from Pope Paul IV, and it was in operation for 300 years, the longest living ghetto in Europe. In October 1943 there were still 1023 residents living in the area of the ghetto. They were rounded up by the Nazis and deported to Auschwitz for extermination. Only 16 of them returned. 

One member of our tour group was Mitchell. He is a young American who recently made Aliyah and joined the IDF as a lone soldier. In November 2023, he lost two dear friends from his battalion in the fight against Hamas. In their memory, he has created bumper stickers and gives them our so many individuals and communities will help their memory live on. He gave me one sticker to bring back to Ottawa and it reads, “Say little and do much – Viper Battalion – Two brothers, two warriors, two righteous people, two heroes – In memory of Benjamin Lev and Gilad Aryeh Boym – with love and pain, lost after the [Oct 7] attack, Nov. 21.”

Next time you are near the Federation offices, come and see the sticker and help the memory of these brave young men live on. And if you visit Europe, don’t just look up at the ancient architecture and famous art. Look down and bow your head in remembrance of those who never came home.

Jodi Green is the Jewish Federation of Ottawa’s Advocacy and Communications Specialist